To accomplish this, filler metals stronger than those composed primarily of tin must be used. However, this increased strength generally comes from filler metals made of materials that melt at higher temperatures. The most commonly used brazing filler metal types, used to join copper tube and fittings fall into two distinct categories:.
Whether the joining process being utilized is soldering or brazing, there are certain basic steps that should be followed to consistently obtain strong joints. This standard and its procedures deal with end preparation, cleaning and the proper application of heat and filler metal.
Whether the joining process being utilized is soldering or brazing, the tube should be fully inserted into the fitting to the back of the fitting cup. This is an important dimension because ideally the filler metal should be melted into the capillary space so that it flows completely to the back of the fitting cup and completely bridges fills the space between the tube and the fitting.
A major difference between brazed and soldered joints is in the amount of joint overlap or fill necessary to develop full strength of the joint. In a brazed joint, full insertion of the tube to the back of the fitting cup is still highly recommended; however, complete fill of this joint space throughout this entire length is not necessary to achieve full joint strength. According to the American Welding Society AWS , it is suggested that the brazing filler metal penetrate the capillary space at least three times the thickness of the thinnest component being joined, which is usually the tube.
Because of the increased strength of brazing alloys, even this rather small amount of fill penetration will result in a properly fabricated brazed joint stronger than the tube and or fitting themselves. Plus, soldering aka 'sweating' pipe is one of those skills that's actually really easy to learn, and pretty hard to mess up badly. Here's the thing, though: soldering pipe can be dangerous, because it involves using a blow torch at high temperatures to heat the copper.
Plus, you'll almost always be doing it it indoors, which is not my favorite place to use an open flame. So do it safely :.
The most common way of joining copper pipe is by soldering it's called 'sweating' mostly in the U. A soldered copper joint is called a 'capillary' or 'lap' joint see more here , because the fitting overlaps the tube end, leaving a capillary space between the two pieces.
That space then gets filled with solder; heated, liquid metal, which cools to seal the gap. Brazing is basically the same process, put performed at a higher temperature if the soldering metal melts above degrees, the process is called brazing.
Flux is used to prevent oxidation in the copper when the heat is applied, and to 'wet' the metal, allowing the liquid solder to flow more easily into the joint.
Charcoal was used as one of the earliest forms of flux. Pine rosin is also used as a flux in soft-soldering electronics. Learn more. Measure your pipe to the correct length. Make sure to account for the size of the couplings that you'll be using.
Here's what you'll need to solder copper: Advertisement. Cut the pipe Cut the pipe to the correct length. Since copper is a soft metal, you can cut it with a tube cutter. If the pipe is a larger one, you may need a hacksaw. Clean the pipe It's important to clean the pipe so that it's rust-free. Rub the sand paper around the end of the pipe and the inside of the pipe.
Apply flux Apply a liberal coat of flux liquid metal to the inside of the fitting that the tube will be soldered to and to the outside of the tubing. Place the fitting on the end of the tubing and rotate it so that the flux spreads evenly. Heat and solder the tubing Leave the fitting on the copper tubing. Examine inside all cut copper pipes to ensure that the burr a ridge of copper shards caused by the saw where the cut was made has been removed, to allow unimpeded water flow once the joints are sweated.
If burr remains, follow the steps to remove it here. If a wire fitting brush is handy, it will make short work of cleaning inside the copper pipe.
Otherwise, wrap the emery cloth around your index finger, stick it in the mouth of the pipe, and twist to clean. Cleaned copper will shine like a brand new penny. Don insulated work gloves for protection against the acid in the flux. Apply a thin, even layer of tinning or plumbing flux to the newly cleaned sections of the exterior and interior of the copper pipes with an acid or flux brush. Wipe off excess flux with a clean rag. Put on a pair of goggles for eye protection.
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